Flavors & Sights of France and Italy

Nice rises from the pebbled coast to lush hills, yet the heart of the city is located between the old port city and the Aeroport de Côte d’Azur. To take it all in, enjoy a jaunt on the Promenade des Anglais along the Mediterranean Sea. The Old Port, located in Vieux Nice (Old Nice), is a colorful and busy place, with various markets. There discover an ensemble of narrow streets, colorful architecture, and picturesque piazzas. Stretch out on Nice’s recognizable blue lounge chairs on one of its iconic beaches. Some of these private beaches, like the Blue Beach or the Castel Beach, are among the most glamorous beaches on the French Riviera.

At first glance, it really doesn't look all that impressive. There's a pretty port with cafés charging €5 for a coffee and a picturesque old town in sugared-almond hues, but there are many prettier in the hills nearby. There are sandy beaches, rare enough on the Riviera, and old-fashioned squares with plane trees and pétanque players, but these are a dime a dozen throughout Provence. So what made St-Tropez an internationally known locale? Two words: Brigitte Bardot. When this pulpeuse (voluptuous) teenager showed up in St-Tropez on the arm of Roger Vadim in 1956 to film And God Created Woman, the heads of the world snapped around. Neither the gentle descriptions of writer Guy de Maupassant (1850–93), nor the watercolor tones of Impressionist Paul Signac (1863–1935), nor the stream of painters who followed (including Matisse and Bonnard) could focus the world's attention on this seaside hamlet as did this one sensual woman in a scarf, Ray-Bans, and capris. Vanity Fair ran a big article, "Saint Tropez Babylon," detailing the over-the-top petrodollar parties, megayachts, and Beyoncé–d paparazzi. But don't be turned off: the next year, Stewart, Tabori & Chang released an elegant coffee-table book, Houses of St-Tropez, packed with photos of supremely tasteful and pretty residences, many occupied by fashion designers, artists, and writers. Once a hangout for Colette, Anaïs Nin, and Françoise Sagan, the town still earns its old moniker, the "Montparnasse of the Mediterranean." Yet you might be surprised to find that this byword for billionaires is so small and insulated. The lack of train service, casinos, and chain hotels keeps it that way. Yet fame, in a sense, came too fast for St-Trop. Unlike the chic resorts farther east, it didn't have the decades-old reputation of the sort that would attract visitors all year around. For a good reason: its location on the south side of the gulf puts it at the mercy of the terrible mistral winter winds. So, in summer the crowds descend and the prices rise into the stratosphere. In July and August, you must be carefree about the sordid matter of cash. After all, at the most Dionysian nightclub in town, a glass of tap water goes for $37 and when the mojo really gets going, billionaires think nothing of "champagne-spraying" the partying crowds—think World Series celebrations but with $1,000 bottles of Roederer Cristal instead of Gatorade. Complaining about summer crowds, overpricing, and lack of customer service has become a tourist sport and yet this is what makes St-Tropez—described by the French daily newspaper Le Figaro as the place you can see "the greatest number of faces per square meter"—as intriguing as it is seductive.

Sanary-sur-Mer is a picturesque port town on the French Riviera, nestled between Toulon and Marseille, known for its authentic Provençal charm and colorful harbor. It is primarily a port of call for Mediterranean cruises, rather than a departure point for multi-day itineraries.

Attractions:

Sanary-sur-Mer Town ExplorationThe town is a hidden village offering a respite from the hustle of larger cities. Ships often anchor offshore and passengers take a tender into the tiny harbor.

• Harbor and Boats: The heart of the town is the harbor, lined with palm trees and brightly painted pointus, traditional wooden fishing boats still used by local fishermen to bring in the daily catch.

• Historical Sites: Visitors can explore the Tour Romane (a 13th-century watchtower used for art exhibitions and panoramic views) and the 16th-century Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Pitié, which offers broad views over Sanary’s bay.

• Shopping and Markets: Wander the pedestrian-only streets for small galleries, arts and crafts workshops, fashionable boutiques, and the daily Provençal market (except Mondays), which features local wines, produce, olive oil, and textiles.

• Culture: The town has small museums dedicated to Jacques Cousteau, who developed deep-sea diving equipment in the area, and it was a place of exile for German writers and artists like Thomas Mann and Bertolt Brecht in the 1930s.

Calvi, Corsica's slice of the Riviera, has been described by author Dorothy Carrington as "an oasis of pleasure on an otherwise austere island." Calvi prospered by supplying products to Genoa; its citizens remained loyal supporters of Genoa long after the rest of the island declared independence. Calvi also claims to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. During the 18th century the town endured assaults from Corsican nationalists, including celebrated patriot Pasquale Paoli. Today Calvi sees a summertime invasion of tourists, drawn to the 6-km (4-mile) stretch of sandy white beach, impressive citadel overlooking the Old Town, lively restaurants, and buzzing nightlife.

From the grandeur of the Leaning Tower of Pisa to the charming canals of La Venezia Nuova (New Venice), which date back to the Medici era, the Italian city of Florence contains much to explore. The port city of Livorno’s colorful building facades rises above the canal waters as a sight to behold. The long and storied history of Lucca call out to curious explorers seeking a mentally stimulating adventure. Cathedrals, art, culture, food, these iconic Italian cities have it all, and Livorno acts as the hub to make your way to each.

The colorful facades and pedestrians-only calata (promenade) make Portovenere the quintessential Ligurian seaside village. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its harbor is lined with tall, thin "terratetto" houses that date from as far back as the 11th century and are connected in a wall-like formation to protect against attacks by the Pisans and local pirates. Its tiny, carruggi (alley-like passageways) lead to an array of charming shops, homes, and gardens and eventually to the village's impressive Castle Doria high on the olive tree covered hill. To the west standing guard over the Mediterranean is the picturesque medieval Chiesa di San Pietro, once the site of a temple to Venus (Venere in Italian), from which Portovenere gets its name. Nearby, in a rocky area leading to the sea, is Byron's Cave, a favorite spot that the poet loved to swim out into the sea from.

An ancient hamlet surrounded by fortresses, Porto Ercole creates the perfect backdrop for dreaming and exploration. The lower part of the town along the bay contains modern shops, shipyards, diving centers and restaurants. Travel to the southside of the bay to see the historic center near Rocca Spagnola, a fortress dating back to the 16th century. Take it easy and catch some sunrays at the beaches of Spiaggia della Feniglia and Cala Galera, both of which connect Argentario to the mainland. A scenic daytrip to the nearby Capalbio gives you a splendid taste of Tuscany.

Naples, in the Campania region, is Italy's third largest city. Its claim to fame is the spectacular location along one of the world's most splendid bays, backed by the perfect cone of Mount Vesuvius. In addition to its beautiful setting, Naples' surprises with other outstanding attractions such as the Royal Palace, San Carlos Opera House, the impressive National Archaeological Museum and the Castel Nuovo, dating from the 13th-century. The city's central area is best explored on foot. Chaotic traffic conditions make driving around the city a very frustrating experience. Naples provides a convenient starting point for trips to such favored destinations as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. The Isle of Capri can be reached via a 45-minute hydrofoil service. The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples' National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.