Ancient Worlds And Ottoman Treasures

Embark your ship and settle into your stateroom. Athens has been called the “birthplace of democracy.” Its legacy looms large from atop Acropolis Hill, the pinnacle of ancient Greece. This open air museum is an astonishing repository of once-mighty structures. From its colonnaded Parthenon—built more than 2,600 years ago—revered Greek philosophers like Plato and Aristotle formulated new ideas of government and debated its role in civic life to captivated audiences. Remnants of spiritual life are also here in the several temples to Athena and Zeus.

Nauplia, once the capital of Greece and still an insider tip in the Peloponnese, enjoys a scenic location on the Argolic Gulf. The city is nestled against a rocky promontory and offers impressive views from the two fortresses that watch over it: Palamidi Castle from the 18th century and Akronafplia Castle, the ruins of which house the Nafplia Palace Hotel today. Syntagma Square, with its charming cafes and restaurants, invites you to while away some time. With its wonderful blend of history and Greek way of life, Nauplia enchants its visitors and is a quieter alternative to better-known destinations in Greece.

Oraia (beautiful) is the word Greeks use to describe Nafplion. The town's old section, on a peninsula jutting into the gulf of Argos, mixes Greek, Venetian, and Turkish architecture; narrow streets, often just broad flights of stone stairs, climb the slopes beneath the walls of Acronafplia. Tree-shaded plazas surround neoclassic buildings. The Palamidi fortress—an elegant display of Venetian might from the early 1700s—guards the town. Nafplion deserves at least a leisurely day of your undivided attention, and you may want to spend several days or a week here and use the city as the base from which to explore the many surrounding ancient sights.

Visitors to Mykonos are greeted by picturesque scenes that are quintessentially Greek: gleaming white houses with flower-filled balconies and blue doors, framed by windmills and the azure sea. The “fair wind” meltemi, which blows across the Cyclades, has been used for centuries to set the windmills in motion – six of them still stand and shape the picturesque townscape. Once sleepy, the island became a hotspot for the international jet set in the late 1960s, led by personalities such as Aristotle Onassis and Jackie Kennedy. Today, Mykonos combines authentic Greek charm with a touch of glamour and exclusive nightlife.

Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law. Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed sexy for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.

Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law. Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed sexy for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.

A major place of worship in ancient times, Delos is now an island steeped in myths and history: legend has it that it was a floating island until Poseidon anchored it down to the bottom of the sea with four diamond pillars so that Leto could safely give birth to the twins Artemis and Apollo there. The island thus became a sacred place with the great Temple of Apollo and served as the political, cultural and economic centre of the Cyclades for a long time. Today, Delos is mostly uninhabited – only museum guards and their families still live here – but the impressive ruins and temples bear witness to a glorious past. Delos has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990, inviting visitors to delve deep into the history of ancient civilisation.

The uninhabited island of Delos in the Cyclades archipelago is dedicated solely as a UNESCO archaeological site with ties to ancient Greek mythology as the birth site of the sun god Apollo. It is the only island in the world entirely comprised of ruins. The stark white Doric temples against the deep blue backdrop of the Aegean create an image straight out of myth. Filled with monuments from the Classical, Hellenistic and Archaic periods of Greek art, this legendary destination gives you the impression that it will hold value for all time.

Kusadasi’s long, palm-lined promenade immediately evokes a holiday feeling – a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters of the Aegean Sea is enough to make you forget the daily grind. A few kilometres away, the historic site of Ephesus, where the splendour of ancient Rome is still reflected in the impressive ruins of the Celsus Library and the great theatre, takes you back to a distant time. Kusadasi itself, founded in the 13th century by Italian traders, offers a mix of Turkish charm and Mediterranean ease – a place where history and the present gently merge.

Whilst the busy resort town of Kusadasi offers much in the way of shopping and dining – not to mention a flourishing beach life scene, the real jewel here is Ephesus and the stunning ruined city that really take centre stage. With only 20% of the classical ruins having been excavated, this archaeological wonder has already gained the status as Europe’s most complete classical metropolis. And a metropolis it really is; built in the 10th century BC this UNESCO World Heritage site is nothing short of spectacular. Although regrettably very little remains of the Temple of Artemis (one of the seven wonders of the ancient world), the superb Library of Celsus’ façade is practically intact and it is one of life’s great joys to attend an evening performance in the illuminated ruins once all the tourists have left. The history of the city is fascinating and multi-layered and it is well worth reading up on this beforehand if a visit is planned. Another point of interest for historians would be the house of the Virgin Mary, located on the romantically named Mount Nightingale and just nine kilometres away from Ephesus proper. Legend has it that Mary (along with St. John) spent her final years here, secluded from the rest of the population, spreading Christianity. An edifying experience, even for non-believers. For the less historical minded amongst you, Kusadasi offers plenty in the way of activities. After a stroll through the town, jump in a taxi to Ladies’ Beach (men are allowed), sample a Turkish kebap on one of the many beachfront restaurants and enjoy the clement weather. If you do want to venture further afield, then the crystal clear beaches of Guzelcamli (or the Millipark), the cave of Zeus and the white scalloped natural pools at Pamukkale, known as Cleopatra’s pools, are definitely worth a visit.

Some 20 km (12.4 mi.) from the Dardanelles lies Bozcaada, an unspoilt island paradise in the northern Turkish Aegean. From the slopes of the highest mountain, Goztepe, breathtaking views of secluded coves with clear water and scattered pine forests unfold. The imposing Bozcaada Castle, which guards the harbour, probably dates back to the early 18th century. It bears witness to the island’s turbulent history. Today, Bozcaada is best known as Turkey’s most important wine-growing region, producing almost a third of the country’s wine. Every year, the vines attract visitors from all over the world to the island, who come to taste the wine and its special aromas, enjoying the laid-back atmosphere as well.

Istanbul, a fascinating metropolis that combines historical splendour and modern lifestyle, lies at the borders of Europe and Asia. The iconic landmarks of Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and provide impressive insights into the city’s rich history. A stroll through the old city takes you through a labyrinth of narrow streets and bustling bazaars, with the Grand Bazaar at its centre, inviting you to forget the time as you browse and admire the many stands and products. The banks of the Bosporus, the city’s lifeline, offer a picturesque backdrop: a ride in a traditional water taxi reveals unforgettable panoramas of the historic skyline and allows you to absorb the unique blend of East and West.

Istanbul exudes a fascinating mix of Western and Eastern cultures. Its strategic locale led to its role as a significant center of trade—eventually becoming a cultural crossroads along the world-famous Silk Road. One of the city’s stunning centerpieces is Hagia Sophia, founded as a basilica, converted to a mosque, then a museum; it is now a mosque again and features exquisite mosaics and frescoes. The city’s Grand Bazaar offers a rich taste of Turkish culture, from a vast selection of carpets and fabric to luscious dates and the local sweet favorite, Turkish Delight.

Istanbul exudes a fascinating mix of Western and Eastern cultures. Its strategic locale led to its role as a significant center of trade—eventually becoming a cultural crossroads along the world-famous Silk Road. One of the city’s stunning centerpieces is Hagia Sophia, founded as a basilica, converted to a mosque, then a museum; it is now a mosque again and features exquisite mosaics and frescoes. The city’s Grand Bazaar offers a rich taste of Turkish culture, from a vast selection of carpets and fabric to luscious dates and the local sweet favorite, Turkish Delight.

Istanbul exudes a fascinating mix of Western and Eastern cultures. Its strategic locale led to its role as a significant center of trade—eventually becoming a cultural crossroads along the world-famous Silk Road. One of the city’s stunning centerpieces is Hagia Sophia, founded as a basilica, converted to a mosque, then a museum; it is now a mosque again and features exquisite mosaics and frescoes. The city’s Grand Bazaar offers a rich taste of Turkish culture, from a vast selection of carpets and fabric to luscious dates and the local sweet favorite, Turkish Delight.

A blend of historic charm and modern city life awaits visitors in Kavala, which, despite its importance as a trading centre, has retained much of its original character. The old town on the Panagia Peninsula is overlooked by a medieval castle dating from 1425 and offers impressive views of the surrounding coastline. A landmark of Kavala is the aqueduct, which was built in 1550 and extends across the city with its 60 double-decker arches. For those seeking relaxation, the city beaches, such as the extensive sandy Ammolofoi Beach, are a heavenly invitation to sunbathe. Kavala combines history, culture and the beauty of the Aegean in a unique way.

The port city of Volos, nestled in the picturesque landscape of Thessaly, has a unique atmosphere. The scent of pine trees, olives and herbs is in the air, while laid-back life pulsates along the pretty harbour promenade. In the cafes and taverns, visitors can enjoy views of the surrounding mountain ranges and beaches. Those who want to explore the area around Volos will find exciting excursion destinations in the traditional villages of the Pilion Mountains and the impressive Meteora monasteries.

Nestled ideally between the gentle lapping waves of the Pagasetic Gulf and Mount Pelion, Volos is a Greek seaside town worth visiting. The town enjoys a near mythic status as being home of Jason and his Argonauts, and that, along with its reputation for being ‘Land of the Centaurs’ should go some way to illustrating the degree of ancient history to be found in Volos. The city was severely damaged in an earthquake in 1955 which regrettably means that much of the 19th-century architecture has been lost or damaged. A few traces do remain however, fine examples of neo-classical architecture that are hidden away around the town. If you want your history a little older than that, the superb archaeology museum will both surprise and delight you. Not only will you find objects from the Ancient Greek era but recent excavations have unearthed artefacts from the first Neolithic settlements of Dimini and Sesklo. The city itself is flat and easy to negotiate on foot. Or better still, make like the locals and hire a bike to cycle the city. For those feeling a little more adventurous, the 8-mile cycle up Mont Pelion rewards the sporty cycler with traditional stone tavernas and breathtaking views of the region. If relaxing closer to home is more your glass of ouzo, make for Palia, the old part of Volos, famous for having some of the finest cuisine on the mainland. Head into the narrow alleys, order a tsipouradika (a combination of traditional spirit served with local mezze) and enjoy.

Embark your ship and settle into your stateroom. Athens has been called the “birthplace of democracy.” Its legacy looms large from atop Acropolis Hill, the pinnacle of ancient Greece. This open air museum is an astonishing repository of once-mighty structures. From its colonnaded Parthenon—built more than 2,600 years ago—revered Greek philosophers like Plato and Aristotle formulated new ideas of government and debated its role in civic life to captivated audiences. Remnants of spiritual life are also here in the several temples to Athena and Zeus.