Cruising the Greek Islands of the Southern Aegean – with Smithsonian Journeys

Athens is the capital and largest city of Greece, known as the birthplace of democracy and Western civilization. It has a rich history that dates back thousands of years and is home to many ancient landmarks. The city is famous for the Acropolis and the Parthenon, which attract visitors from around the world. Alongside its historical treasures, Athens is a vibrant modern city with lively neighborhoods, museums, and cultural events. It serves as the political, economic, and cultural center of Greece.

For better or worse, it can be difficult to reach Patmos—for many travelers, this lack of access is definitely for the better, since the island retains the air of an unspoiled retreat. Rocky and barren, the small, 34-square-km (21-square-mi) island lies beyond the islands of Kalymnos and Leros, northwest of Kos. Here on a hillside is the Monastery of the Apocalypse, which enshrines the cave where St. John received the Revelation in AD 95. Scattered evidence of Mycenaean presence remains on Patmos, and walls of the classical period indicate the existence of a town near Skala. Most of the island's approximately 2,800 people live in three villages: Skala, medieval Chora, and the small rural settlement of Kambos. The island is popular among the faithful making pilgrimages to the monastery as well as with vacationing Athenians and a newly growing community of international trendsetters—designers, artists, poets, and “taste gurus” (to quote Vogue’s July 2011 write-up of the island)—who have bought homes in Chora. These stylemeisters followed in the footsteps of Alexandrian John Stefanidis and the English artist Teddy Millington-Drake who, in the early ’60s, set about creating what eventually became hailed as one of the most gorgeous island homes in the world. The word soon spread thanks to their many guests (who included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis) but, happily, administrators have carefully contained development, and as a result, Patmos retains its charm and natural beauty—even in the busy month of August.

Symi enchants from the moment you arrive, its harbor framed by tiers of pastel-colored neoclassical mansions rising from the sea like a painting come to life. This hidden gem of the Dodecanese invites you to slow down and savor its elegance—whether wandering cobbled lanes lined with boutiques and artisan shops, or lingering at a waterfront café with views of gently bobbing fishing boats. Beyond the town, discover the revered Panormitis Monastery, a spiritual landmark steeped in history and dedicated to the Archangel Michael. Steeped in history and charm, Symi offers an authentic slice of Greek island life, where beauty is found in every detail and the pace is as relaxed as the Aegean breeze.

Tucked into a natural bay, Amorgos welcomes you with whitewashed houses, flowering bougainvillea, and the timeless charm of Cycladic island life. Known for its dramatic cliffs and sapphire seas, this remote gem invites exploration and reflection. Climb to the clifftop Hozoviotissa Monastery for breathtaking views, or wander ancient trails scented with wild herbs. Swim in hidden coves made famous by The Big Blue, and savor the island’s quietude over a seaside meal of freshly caught seafood. Amorgos offers a soul-stirring escape where tradition, nature, and serenity converge.

Milos or Melos is a volcanic Greek island in the Aegean Sea, just north of the Sea of Crete. Milos is the southwesternmost island in the Cyclades group. The Venus de Milo and the Asclepius of Milos were both found on the island, as were a Poseidon and an archaic Apollo now in Athens.

The uninhabited island of Delos in the Cyclades archipelago is dedicated solely as a UNESCO archaeological site with ties to ancient Greek mythology as the birth site of the sun god Apollo. It is the only island in the world entirely comprised of ruins. The stark white Doric temples against the deep blue backdrop of the Aegean create an image straight out of myth. Filled with monuments from the Classical, Hellenistic and Archaic periods of Greek art, this legendary destination gives you the impression that it will hold value for all time.

Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law. Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed sexy for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.

Oraia (beautiful) is the word Greeks use to describe Nafplion. The town's old section, on a peninsula jutting into the gulf of Argos, mixes Greek, Venetian, and Turkish architecture; narrow streets, often just broad flights of stone stairs, climb the slopes beneath the walls of Acronafplia. Tree-shaded plazas surround neoclassic buildings. The Palamidi fortress—an elegant display of Venetian might from the early 1700s—guards the town. Nafplion deserves at least a leisurely day of your undivided attention, and you may want to spend several days or a week here and use the city as the base from which to explore the many surrounding ancient sights.

Athens is the capital and largest city of Greece, known as the birthplace of democracy and Western civilization. It has a rich history that dates back thousands of years and is home to many ancient landmarks. The city is famous for the Acropolis and the Parthenon, which attract visitors from around the world. Alongside its historical treasures, Athens is a vibrant modern city with lively neighborhoods, museums, and cultural events. It serves as the political, economic, and cultural center of Greece.