Dublin to Edinburgh

Dublin is making a comeback. The decade-long "Celtic Tiger" boom era was quickly followed by the Great Recession, but The Recovery has finally taken a precarious hold. For visitors, this newer and wiser Dublin has become one of western Europe's most popular and delightful urban destinations. Whether or not you're out to enjoy the old or new Dublin, you'll find it a colossally entertaining city, all the more astonishing considering its intimate size.It is ironic and telling that James Joyce chose Dublin as the setting for his famous Ulysses, Dubliners, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man because it was a "center of paralysis" where nothing much ever changed. Which only proves that even the greats get it wrong sometimes. Indeed, if Joyce were to return to his once-genteel hometown today—disappointed with the city's provincial outlook, he left it in 1902 at the age of 20—and take a quasi-Homeric odyssey through the city (as he so famously does in Ulysses), would he even recognize Dublin as his "Dear Dirty Dumpling, foostherfather of fingalls and dotthergills"?For instance, what would he make of Temple Bar—the city's erstwhile down-at-the-heels neighborhood, now crammed with cafés and trendy hotels and suffused with a nonstop, international-party atmosphere? Or the simple sophistication of the open-air restaurants of the tiny Italian Quarter (named Quartier Bloom after his own creation), complete with sultry tango lessons? Or of the hot–cool Irishness, where every aspect of Celtic culture results in sold-out theaters, from Once, the cult indie movie and Broadway hit, to Riverdance, the old Irish mass-jig recast as a Las Vegas extravaganza? Plus, the resurrected Joyce might be stirred by the songs of Hozier, fired up by the sultry acting of Michael Fassbender, and moved by the award-winning novels of Colum McCann. As for Ireland's capital, it's packed with elegant shops and hotels, theaters, galleries, coffeehouses, and a stunning variety of new, creative little restaurants can be found on almost every street in Dublin, transforming the provincial city that suffocated Joyce into a place almost as cosmopolitan as the Paris to which he fled. And the locals are a hell of a lot more fun! Now that the economy has finally turned a corner, Dublin citizens can cast a cool eye over the last 20 crazy years. Some argue that the boomtown transformation of their heretofore-tranquil city has permanently affected its spirit and character. These skeptics (skepticism long being a favorite pastime in the capital city) await the outcome of "Dublin: The Sequel," and their greatest fear is the possibility that the tattered old lady on the Liffey has become a little less unique, a little more like everywhere else.Oh ye of little faith: the rare ole gem that is Dublin is far from buried. The fundamentals—the Georgian elegance of Merrion Square, the Norman drama of Christ Church Cathedral, the foamy pint at an atmospheric pub—are still on hand to gratify. Most of all, there are the locals themselves: the nod and grin when you catch their eye on the street, the eagerness to hear half your life story before they tell you all of theirs, and their paradoxically dark but warm sense of humor. It's expected that 2016 will be an extra-special year in the capital, as centenary celebrations of the fateful 1916 Easter Rising will dominate much of the cultural calendar.

Before English and Scottish settlers arrived in the 1600s, Belfast was a tiny village called Béal Feirste ("sandbank ford") belonging to Ulster's ancient O'Neill clan. With the advent of the Plantation period (when settlers arrived in the 1600s), Sir Arthur Chichester, from Devon in southwestern England, received the city from the English Crown, and his son was made Earl of Donegall. Huguenots fleeing persecution from France settled near here, bringing their valuable linen-work skills. In the 18th century, Belfast underwent a phenomenal expansion—its population doubled every 10 years, despite an ever-present sectarian divide. Although the Anglican gentry despised the Presbyterian artisans—who, in turn, distrusted the native Catholics—Belfast's growth continued at a dizzying speed. The city was a great Victorian success story, an industrial boomtown whose prosperity was built on trade, especially linen and shipbuilding. Famously (or infamously), the Titanic was built here, giving Belfast, for a time, the nickname "Titanic Town." Having laid the foundation stone of the city's university in 1845, Queen Victoria returned to Belfast in 1849 (she is recalled in the names of buildings, streets, bars, monuments, and other places around the city), and in the same year, the university opened under the name Queen's College. Nearly 40 years later, in 1888, Victoria granted Belfast its city charter. Today its population is nearly 300,000, tourist numbers have increased, and this dramatically transformed city is enjoying an unparalleled renaissance.This is all a welcome change from the period when news about Belfast meant reports about "the Troubles." Since the 1994 ceasefire, Northern Ireland's capital city has benefited from major hotel investment, gentrified quaysides (or strands), a sophisticated new performing arts center, and major initiatives to boost tourism. Although the 1996 bombing of offices at Canary Wharf in London disrupted the 1994 peace agreement, the ceasefire was officially reestablished on July 20, 1997, and this embattled city began its quest for a newfound identity.Since 2008, the city has restored all its major public buildings such as museums, churches, theaters, City Hall, Ulster Hall—and even the glorious Crown Bar—spending millions of pounds on its built heritage. A gaol that at the height of the Troubles held some of the most notorious murderers involved in paramilitary violence is now a major visitor attraction.Belfast's city center is made up of three roughly contiguous areas that are easy to navigate on foot. From the south end to the north, it's about an hour's leisurely walk.

Spirits are always high on Islay, famously known as ‘The Whisky Island’ thanks to its distinguished collection of heritage-rich distilleries. World-renowned for its exceptional whiskies, Islay - the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides - forms one of Scotland’s historically protected and distinct whisky regions and is the perfect place to savor the unique flavors and nuanced tasting notes of a drink that is emblematic of Scotland. As you arrive in Port Ellen, a charming village nestled around Leodamais Bay, you’ll be waved ashore by Frederick Crescent - a picturesque row of whitewashed houses lining the beachfront. The island’s iconic distilleries, often painted gleaming white with bold signage, invite you to indulge in the typically peaty delights of this flavorful destination. Swirl your glass and admire the prized drams glowing beautifully in the light, before savoring smoky flavors, and subtle hints of salty sea air. Don’t worry if whisky isn’t your tipple, Islay’s rugged shores are perfect for walking - though admittedly you may find yourself wandering between coastal distilleries. Landmarks like the uniquely boxy Carraig Fhada Lighthouse provide charming focal points, while the dramatic cliffs of the Oa Peninsula reveal the American Monument at the Mull of Oa, a poignant tribute to those lost in the sinking of the SS Tuscania during World War I. With its crystal-clear waters, playful seals, and breathtaking windswept scenery, Islay and Port Ellen’s charms linger long on the palate and in the heart.

The stunning Isle of Lunga is the largest island in the Treshnish archipelago. With volcanic origin the isle was populated until the 19th Century, and remains of black houses can be seen around this magnificent coastal jewel. Abundant plant life and exotic birdlife are now the main inhabitants of the area. Fortunate visitors view the magnificent array of birds, especially the great puffins that breed on the islands plateau. One can sit within just a few feet away without disturbing the avian ambassador’s peace. The 81 hectare island is home to many rare and endangered plants such as, primroses and orchids. Views over the landscape and across the ocean can be seen from the 300 foot high cliffs.

With a population of 120 residents, Iona is Located off the Southwest of Mull. The island is 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide but draws in thousands of visitors each year due to its natural beauty and historical interest. Saint Columba and his fellow monks landed here in 563. This beautiful stretch of coastline brings out the true beauty of Iona facing onto the Gulf Stream that gives the island its mild climate. Located to the south of the road lies Sìthean Mòr (Large fairy hill) and alternatively known as the Hill of Angels, this is said to have been the setting for many rituals and traditions dating far back in history. This wonderful highlight, Iona Abbey was founded by Saint Columba in 563 and is said to have survived many Viking attacks. Although little remains of the monastic buildings of this period, the magnificent Abbey is the main attraction.

St Kilda is a remarkable uninhabited archipelago some 40 nautical miles beyond the Outer Hebrides. The stunning cliffs and sea stacks are home to the most important seabird breeding colony in northwest Europe. St Kilda is one of the few places in the world to have received dual World Heritage status from UNESCO in recognition of its Natural Heritage and cultural significance. Village Bay on the island of Hirta once supported a population of over 200, but the last islanders left in the 1930s. Recent restoration work on the village by the National Trust for Scotland offers a marvellous link with the past. One of the caretakers acts as shopkeeper and postmaster for any visitors who might like to send a postcard home from St. Kilda.

Erupting out of the Atlantic waters like a mythical beast, Boreray Island captivates all those who lay eyes upon it. As we approach, listen out for sharp intakes of breath - the abrasive and immense form of this staggering island never fails to astound. Few locations command such awe as uninhabited Boreray, left to the seabirds since the last residents of the St Kilda Islands departed in 1930. Watch as vast numbers of Northern Gannets glide overhead before attempting skillful landings at tucked-away nest sites or plunge into the sea, seeking food for their new chicks. Northern Fulmars also make their homes on the volcanic cliffs, while Atlantic Puffins dart in and out of burrows on the slopes. The rugged, rocky island is also well known for the hardy sheep who cling to its shores. You might be able to pick out the rare Boreray Sheep, unique to the island, grazing on the hilly slopes as we cruise alongside the island and the attendant rock stacks that stand tall against the Atlantic onslaught. Boreray forms a part of the dramatic St Kilda World Heritage Site and is a rare example of a site recognized for both its outstanding natural and cultural values.

Cliffs of tall hexagonal columns create a sensational landscape at the Shiant Islands, especially when viewed from the sea. The cliffs of six-sided rock columns look like the cross-section of an enormous honeycomb. The rock formations were formed when molten volcanic magma cooled very slowly underground. Millions of years of erosion have exposed the six-sided columns to the sea, and to us. The tallest of these formations is 120 meters (390 feet) high. During spring and summer, flights of seabirds near the Shiant Islands catch the eye. Many long-winged seabirds wheel and soar gracefully. Others are more shaped for underwater swimming and fly in direct lines, beating stubby wings to resemble flying potatoes. Some birds nest in burrows while others, like Black-legged Kittiwakes, nest on cliffs. Rather than build nests, guillemots lay eggs on bare rock ledges. The pointed shape of the eggs ensures they roll in a tight circle, not off the ledge to the sea below. The Shiant Islands are part of the Outer Hebrides and located between the Isles of Lewis and Skye. Historically, they have supported families of sheep grazers who could tolerate a lonely island outpost. The Shiants were known as the last place in Britain where the Black Rat occurred in substantial numbers. Originally introduced to Britain from Asia in Roman times these rodents caused problems, eating eggs and chicks of seabirds. A successful eradication program eliminated the rats in 2016, giving the seabird colonies well-earned peace.

Loch Ewe is the only north-facing loch in Scotland. With a fascinating history and stunning scenic landscape, this area overflows with natural beauty. During World War II, the loch served as a convoy gathering point and had a strong naval presence. It was therefore protected by light and heavy anti-aircraft guns, a boom net, and a mine defense system to shield this vital settlement. Loch Ewe is a natural deep-water sea loch that connects to the Atlantic Ocean through a relatively narrow mouth, offering it a vast amount of protection from the weather. Nearby, Inverewe Gardens thrive on the warm currents of the North Atlantic Drift, creating an oasis of color and fertility. Exotic plants from many countries flourish here - on a latitude more northerly than Moscow, giving an almost continual display of color throughout the year.

Zipping along by Zodiac is the perfect way to discover The Summer Isles, a spectacular archipelago scattered off Scotland’s northwest coast. Island hop across a cluster of around 20 isles and outcrops that wait just a few miles from the Coigach peninsula. Rising from picturesque waters, emerald-green and golden shores reveal jagged cliffs, hidden coves, and sandy beaches. The largest of the islands, Tanera Mòr, is a former hub of the herring industry and remnants of its past remain, including an old post office and deserted cottages. The surrounding waters are enjoyed by marine life like seals, dolphins, and porpoises - look out for the seals sprawling across the rocks or playfully inspecting approaching boats. Otters slip in and out of the waters, while gannets duck and dive overhead with distant views of the Hebridean islands. During the summer months, you might witness visitors like minke whales or basking sharks gliding by. Bring your binoculars for the birdlife of locations like Priest Island - the Summer Islands host several colonies of puffins, guillemots, and razorbills. Nearby, Achiltibuie village is the gateway to the archipelago, with its crofting community, and luxurious Summer Isles Hotel - renowned for serving up award-winning cuisine. The innovative hydroponicum garden thrives in the mild Atlantic climate, producing exotic fruits and vegetables.

Stark Torridonian sandstone cliffs soar up from the Atlantic waves of Handa Island - a scenic island that offers rich rewards for birdwatchers. This remote, wild, and windswept island is the perfect sanctuary for hundreds of thousands of seabirds. Located in The Minch, off the west coast of Sutherland in north-west Scotland, the natural escape is protected by the Scottish Wildlife Trust and forms an untouched nature reserve of thriving seabirds. One of the most important seabird breeding sites in north-western Europe, you can see hundreds of pairs of playful puffins burrowing into the terraced cliffs to the north of the island. These delightful birds are just one of the island’s many bird species that swoop in to breed each season. Look closely at the ledged and dramatic cliffs, they are just as alive with activity as the skies above. Enjoy the soundtrack of squawks, chirps, and chatter from the dozens of different resident species. As you cruise by Zodiac along Handa’s dramatic cliffs, watch for guillemots, razorbills, great skua, and kittiwakes filling the air with activity. You might be lucky enough to spot seals, dolphins, and perhaps even basking sharks or orcas in the clear waters. In contrast to the steep cliffs, Handa Island also features beautiful sandy beaches, with shallow, shimmering turquoise waters on sunny days. The island’s storied sea stacks are also towering landmarks - the most famous being the precarious Great Stack, which rises a staggering 115 meters.

Founded by Dutch fishermen in the 17th century, Lerwick today is a busy town and administrative center. Handsome stone buildings—known as lodberries—line the harbor; they provided loading bays for goods, some of them illegal. The town's twisting flagstone lanes and harbor once heaved with activity, and Lerwick is still an active port today. This is also where most visitors to Shetland dock, spilling out of cruise ships, allowing passengers to walk around the town.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets, puffins, guillemots, shags, kittiwakes, Razorbills, fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955, and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep, shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

In bustling Kirkwall, the main town on Orkney, there's plenty to see in the narrow, winding streets extending from the harbor. The cathedral and some museums are highlights.

Days at sea are the perfect opportunity to relax, unwind, and catch up with what you've been meaning to do. So whether that is going to the gym, visiting the spa, whale-watching, catching up on your reading, or simply topping up your tan, these blue sea days are the perfect balance to busy days spent exploring shoreside.

The small village of St Abbs and the adjacent St Abbs National Nature Reserve encapsulate the cultural and natural history of southeast Scotland. Huddled on the coast with its small, protected harbor, the village was established in the mid-18th century by the local fishing community. St Abbs was named after Æbbe, a 7th-century Northumbrian princess who was shipwrecked on these shores. Thankful for her survival, she founded a nunnery and spread Christianity through the pagan land.
Beyond the huddle of fishing cottages is St Abbs Head, a bastion of basalt on the siltstone coast. The waves have created a rugged coast of cliffs and rock stacks which provide opportunities for crowds of breeding seabirds, especially guillemots, kittiwakes, and razorbills. Walking tracks and the lighthouse provide excellent opportunities for viewing the cliffs with ledges occupied by nests, chicks, or adult birds. Fulmars, cormorants, and puffins also nest here.
The Nature Reserve also protects grasslands strewn with wildflowers. Sea Thrift, Wild Tyme, Rock Rose, and Purple Milk Vetch in turn attract butterflies like the Dark Green Fritillary and the rare Northern Brown Argus. Behind the headland, Mire Loch supports nesting swans, ducks, and coots. The sea is also treasured, as particularly clear waters attracted SCUBA divers who created Britain's first Voluntary Marine Reserve at St Abbs in 1984. Look into the waters from cliffs, harbors or boats. It is a world of kelp, crabs, and fish and despite the allure, it is COLD.

The Isle of May in Scotland is owned and managed by Scottish Natural Heritage as a National Nature Reserve and is an important breeding ground for approximately one-quarter of a million seabirds. In fact, over 40,000 puffin burrows have been counted as occupied. Not only kittiwakes, shags, eiders, and guillemots but also Razorbills, Arctic Terns, Sandwich Terns, Common Terns, Lesser Gulls, Herring Gulls, and Great Black-backed Gulls nest here. The island is located roughly four nautical miles off the coast of mainland Scotland and is used by biologists for surveying migrating passerines and for ringing breeding seabirds to better study their movements and breeding success. While hosting an impressive array and quantity of seabirds, the island itself is small at only 1.8 kilometers (1.1 miles) long, and less than half a kilometer (one-third of a mile) wide.

Edinburgh is to London as poetry is to prose, as Charlotte Bronte once wrote. One of the world's stateliest cities and proudest capitals, it's built - like Rome - on seven hills, making it a striking backdrop for the ancient pageant of history. In a skyline of sheer drama, Edinburgh Castle watches over the capital city, frowning down on Princes Street's glamour and glitz. But despite its rich past, the city's famous festivals, excellent museums and galleries, as well as the modern Scottish Parliament, are reminders that Edinburgh has its feet firmly in the 21st century. Nearly everywhere in Edinburgh (the burgh is always pronounced burra in Scotland) there are spectacular buildings, whose Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian pillars add touches of neoclassical grandeur to the largely Presbyterian backdrop. Large gardens are a strong feature of central Edinburgh, where the city council is one of the most stridently conservationist in Europe. Arthur's Seat, a mountain of bright green and yellow furze, rears up behind the spires of the Old Town. This child-size mountain jutting 822 feet above its surroundings has steep slopes and little crags like a miniature Highlands set down in the middle of the busy city. Appropriately, these theatrical elements match Edinburgh's character - after all, the city has been a stage that has seen its fair share of romance, violence, tragedy, and triumph. Modern Edinburgh has become a cultural capital, staging the Edinburgh International Festival and the Fringe Festival in every possible venue each August. The stunning Museum of Scotland complements the city's wealth of galleries and artsy hangouts. Add Edinburgh's growing reputation for food and nightlife and you have one of the world's most beguiling cities. Today the city is the second most important financial center in the United Kingdom, and the fifth most important in Europe. The city regularly is ranked near the top in quality-of-life surveys. Accordingly, New Town apartments on fashionable streets sell for considerable sums. In some senses, the city is showy and materialistic, but Edinburgh still supports learned societies, some of which have their roots in the Scottish Enlightenment. The Royal Society of Edinburgh, for example, established in 1783 "for the advancement of learning and useful knowledge," remains an important forum for interdisciplinary activities. Even as Edinburgh moves through the 21st century, its tall guardian castle remains the focal point of the city and its venerable history. Take time to explore the streets - peopled by the spirits of Mary, Queen of Scots; Sir Walter Scott; and Robert Louis Stevenson - and pay your respects to the world's best-loved terrier, Greyfriars Bobby. In the evenings you can enjoy candlelit restaurants or a folk ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee, a traditional Scottish dance with music), though you should remember that you haven't earned your porridge until you've climbed Arthur's Seat. Should you wander around a corner, say, on George Street, you might see not an endless cityscape, but blue sea and a patchwork of fields. This is the county of Fife, beyond the inlet of the North Sea called the Firth of Forth - a reminder, like the mountains to the northwest that can be glimpsed from Edinburgh's highest points, that the rest of Scotland lies within easy reach.